With the Great Black Rifle Panic Buy of ’09 over and prices plummeting everywhere I look, I’m starting to toy with the idea of surrendering my status as the only shooter in the country who doesn’t yet own an AR. It hasn’t helped, I’ll note, that Stingray did such a good job of explaining his own AR build, or that Tam had to go and show off her super-secret-squirrel (and very cool) quick-change-barrel upper.
So I started trying to make sense of barrel contours, twist rates, A1/A2/A3/A4/A^n uppers, T-marked uppers, F-marked front sights, M4 feed ramps, 2-position, 4-position, and 6-position stocks, CAR-length, mid-length, or rifle-length gas systems, .223 vs. 5.56 vs. Wylde chambers, agonized hand-wringing over the presence or absence of parkerizing under the front sight base, and all the other minutiae that AR fans obsess over.
…
That way lies analysis paralysis.
Basically, my current thinking would have me stick a Rock River Arms mid-length upper with a chrome-lined lightweight barrel on top of a Cav Arms complete lower. The goal being an ultra-light and very handy little gun, one that goes along with my idea of what an AR is for.
To me, the AR is more M1 Carbine than M1 Garand, but with better long-range potential due to the velocity and trajectory advantages of the 5.56 round. So there’s no reason why a recoilless little thing like that should weigh 9 lbs; I literally have an elephant gun that doesn’t quite hit the 8-lb mark on my scale. No, keep it light, keep it simple, and avoid covering 95% of the surface with rails you’re never going to use for anything other than self-inflicted hand lacerations.
The Cav lowers seem to enjoy a devoted following and offer a full pound of weight savings compared to a regular A2 lower assembly, which I really like. And Rock River also has a fine reputation as well as being the only apparent source of an off-the-shelf upper in the configuration I think I want.
I like the mid-length idea since it gives you a bit more sight radius, a little longer gas system, and a slightly better-looking end result. I should also admit that, while I’ll probably win the lottery before I ever need to use a mounted bayonet, it annoys my inner perfectionist that you can’t actually use the bayonet lug on a 16″ upper with an M4-length gas system. Yes, I’m fully aware of how silly that is. It still bugs me.
As for sighting, well, I dunno. I could probably get along just fine with a regular A2 upper, or a detachable carry handle on an A3. I’d rather not drop $900+ on an ACOG. EOTechs are certainly nifty, but they’re also spendy and heavy. I’d probably get an A3 with the handle, in case I change my mind down the road.
But I’ve shot an AR exactly twice in my life and readily admit my lack of expertise regarding the platform. So am I completely full of shit, or does my thinking make a little sense?
No AR here ether.
I’ve had the thought to remedy that, and I decided to make my first build in 9mm. Was talking to a buddy of mine and he brought up Maryland’s crappy laws. So I’d have to do the handgum paperwork and the fee and the 3 weeks (or until whenever Maryland decided to get back to the FFL holder, they don’t enforce the laws THEY need to follow) before I could break out the brass hammer and punches, or I could just buy one assembled with a “heavy barrel” and be done with it.
If you are going headfirst into an AR build, I want to actually build something. Even if it’s not any harder than putting a Lego Kit together.
Buy an upper, buy a lower. Don’t worry about the details. It’s an AR and most of the fiddly details don’t matter especially if you’re using it as a pseudo M1 carbine. (an excellent idea BTW)
Besides this is just the first one.
I think this sounds like a surprisingly sensible plan. I would go ahead and get a Cav Arms A1 rear sight instead of the carry handle, since it’s a rifle, not a purse. I’d be surprised if you didn’t get it under 6lbs that way.
You’re kind of limited on tacticool slings without being able to insert a sling loop between the stock and the receiver, but Vickers makes a slick quick adjusting 2 point for the A2 that should work great.
Stick with a standard lower, assemble it yourself. You won’t get the experience otherwise. I’d recommend starting with a basic parts kit so you can understand just how badly the AR trigger sucks by default. Then replace with a non-adjustable “match” trigger that copies the M1A’s hammer & sear.
As for the upper, there are basically two reasons to use .223. 1. It’s light. M1 carbine replacement, like you said. 2. It’s a great varmint round. So get two uppers. First, 16″ A1-profile with fixed front sight and some kind of fixed rear to attach to the rail. I wouldn’t even bother with optics, but that way it’s about as simple as an M1, and you have the option of slapping an Aimpoint on it later. Second, 20″+ HBAR with a float tube. Doesn’t have to be fancy. Slap a not-too-expensive Leupold or Burris scope on it, and you have a nice ranch rifle.
Tell you a secret: I was bored and confused completely into submission by Stingray’s AR build. Now that the thing is actually together I love shooting it, how could I not like a tackdriver with a stock adjustable to my frame, but I could not for the life of me pay attention to his decision-making process.
I’ll echo the sentiment to get a stripped lower, but that’s based on cost more than experience or anything. The time to put it together is, to me, instructive and useful, so yeah there’s some experience to be had, but mainly a stripped lower + parts kit doesn’t factor in some shop-monkey’s time trying to make a profit. If you’ve got a leatherman and an opposable thumb you’re all set for tools, and aside from a few little gotchas that resolve quickly, I was really shocked at how easy the task was.
The 11% fed tax on firearms is another reason a stripped lower is cheaper than a complete lower.
I currently have a bargain bin carbine from CMMG, but if I were building another AR I’d go with a basic, lightweight, mid-length gas system, 5.56 chamber and no carry handle.
As for EoTech’s, I have both the 512 and 511. The 511 is light enough that I don’t notice the added weight.
A Cav lower has always intrigued me, and there’s the finger to the ATF thing going for it.
But each of my three ARs were built from a stripped lower and all are flat tops. A friend did the A2 thing and now wishes he had an A3 as his eyesight makes irons harder to use. Fixed front sight is fine and carry handle or good BUIS in back works well too.
The light barrel is better; my HBAR bushy is noticeably heavier and you’re not dumping five mags at a time. I really like the longer sight radius of the dissipater setup since us proles have to run 16″ barrels anyway. Harder finding good mid and rifle length hand guards though. Mid-length gas is still a bit of a specialty though.
If you think others will shoot it much, lower + collapsible stock makes sense for LabRat’s reasons. If it’s just for you, your build plan sounds like it would be a great rifle.
Buy the lower stripped with a parts kit, assemble, buy a built upper from whoever and see how you like the platform.
Since I’m in California I had to get a striped lower and build my own from the list of CA-legal ones. The first was a Lauer lower with a White Oak parts kit and a RR two-stage trigger, and I put a White Oak NM upper on it for across-the-course shooting. It’s a fine shooter, much better than me – it’s kinda heavy. My eyesight is the main compromise with the tiny little apertures.
The second was built on a fancy-name lower with the same parts-kit and trigger, and for my 50th B-Day – since nobody was goign to get me anything but me – I bought myself a fancy-name upper as a present. With the heavy barrel, even though it’s short, it’s not much lighter than the Match Rifle.
I don’t have any “real” glass on either, but an Aimpoint on the M$-style.
I looked at the switch-barrel forend because my High Master shootin’ friend recommended it — as an unlimited-money thing – but I don’t have any other calibers anyhow.
I think I’d like a lighter barrel next time.
The shop I go to for reloading components has a couple of stripped lowers for less than I can find on GunBroker+shipping+transfer fee, so I’m thinking of taking the plunge also.
What I find odd is the relative lack of 20″ barrels. Most of my rifles are of WW2 vintage, so a 9lb rifle is normal for me, and I frankly want that .22 bullet going as fast as possible. Considering that the military issues them, I would expect a lot more chrome lined 20″ barrels out there.
Yes, you are making sense.
While many will suggest building your own, unless you’ve got a yen for DIY, skip it this first time around. Either buy a complete rifle or buy a complete upper and complete lower and just snap ‘em together. There’s something great about DIY for sure (including cost savings and getting exactly the rifle you want), but with your admitted novice status on AR’s, it’s probably better to keep the hassle factor to a minimum. You don’t start driving a car by first learning how to rebuild an engine, y’know? Get a (mostly) completed rifle this first time around that suits the specs you think you want. Then after you have it, you’ll learn more about the platform… you’ll learn what you really like and don’t like, and so on. Being the LEGO of firearms, you can change things as you go along, or maybe you’ll opt to keep that rifle as-is and start researching what you need to do to build your dream AR from scratch.
Your outlined plan seems a good one, including going with the A3 so you have iron sights to start and could go to optics later if you want it. You mentioned RRA having the only off-the-shelf config you wanted. Have you looked at CMMG? Their website has so many build options it’ll make your head spin.
In the end, don’t think about it too much or your head will only spin more. You’ve got a good enough plan right now, execute it, and have fun shooting your new rifle.
Assembling a lower is so trivial I’d hate to pay anybody for that job after seeing it done/helping a buddy. IMO once you’ve done one it’s time for a blindfold and a stopwatch.
I do not look at the Upper the same way – more specialized tool are required.
Sorry I didn’t mean to sound arrogant, I have tool skills, my dad was a Shop teacher.
Yeah, the lower build looks pretty trivial, and Cav Arms actually charges $10 less for a complete lower vs. a stripped lower and parts kit.
I did look at CMMG uppers, but they’ve discontinued their lightweight models…
I’d love to have a cavarms lower underneath something like one of DPMS’ ‘sporter’ superlight uppers with a 16-18″ fluted barrel and the lightest handguard and stock possible (was thinking actually of M3 style slide-out stock (with standard lower of course) and making a custom expanded metal mesh handguard and grip).
I think what you’re describing makes perfect sense. CAV15 lower + lightweight middy flattop upper = win. It need not have large numbers of rails, or anything else superfluous.
I do wish that CMMG were still selling their A1 profile “ultralight” 1:7″ chromelined middy barrels. That would have been perfect for this, as a 1:7″ barrel allows you to use the superheavy Mk. 262 round with the 77-grain Nosler BTHP bullet that is proving so lethal over in the big sandbox. The 1:9″ RRA barrels usually can’t stabilize anything heavier than around 70 grains. Then again, Mk. 262 is difficult to come by these days and even the heavy 75-77 grain BTHP component bullets are hard to find, so a 1:9″ barrel is not an unconquerable handicap. Or you could get a 1:7″ middy barrel and have ADCO in Toledo turn it down to A1 profile for you, then again that gets expensive and the point of the exercise, if I understand you correctly, is an entry-level shooter AR that also makes a suitable home defense and trunk gun.
If I were doing something like this, I’d be thinking of both a flattop upper and a railed flattop gas block, suitable for a clamp-on front BUIS. Maybe get one of the polymer popup BUIS sets from Magpul, which seem to have an enthusiastic following, and seem to be both very light and decently well made.
As a primary sighting system, may I recommend the Weaver V3, 1-3x20mm variable, still available for under $150 online if you shop around. It’s bright clear glass with repeatable adjustments, relatively small and light, and astonishingly resistant to the kind of abuse the 3-Gun guys heap on their equipment. Lots of 3-Gun guys run a Weaver V3. Non-magnifying at the low end makes it almost as fast as a red dot, and 3x magnification is quite sufficient for work out at just about any distance you’re justified in engaging with a 5.56mm (and for that matter lots of American snipers in World War II and Korea did quite well with 2 1/2 power scopes, out to 600m and beyond). The mount is the only place where you might not want to squeeze out every last penny. I hear nothing but good things about the Larue QD throw-lever mounts.
The only “tactical” thing I can think of that you might want to consider is that, if this is to be used for home defense, you could get a cheap length of aluminum Picatinny rail for about $5, screw it to the bottom or maybe right side of the front of the handguard, and use that to put a weapon light on it.
p.s.
Mags, mags, mags. Ammo prices are still kind of crazy but mags are still cheap if you shop around online.
I personally use different AR mag sizes and shapes to code for ammo type. USGI straight 20s and Israeli Orlite 30s are for M193, USGI metal 30s are for M855, curved 20s are heavy bullet BTHP ammo.