While the South Park Pundit struggles with some recalcitrant guard screws on his scout rifle, I figured I’d toss up a quick post about guns and screwdrivers. In one sentence: If you plan to work on your guns, you NEED a set of gunsmith’s screwdrivers.
Yeah, I know you went down to Sears and bought the ultra-mega-super-pack containing every driver Craftsman makes. I have the same set in my toolbox. They don’t come anywhere near my guns, though.
See, those regular screwdrivers are flat-ground; if you look at the tip from the side, they have a V shape. Put enough torque on a screw with one of those drivers and the tip invariably climbs up out of the slot. At best, you have a freshly-buggered screw head. At worst, your screwdriver goes skittering across the surface of your gun, gouging the finish and ruining your whole damn week.
Gunsmithing screwdrivers, though, are hollow-ground, just like a good knife blade. Viewed edge-on, the tip sports a pair of concave radii sloping down into parallel sides. Those parallel sides mean that screw and driver mate perfectly; the surfaces make full contact and there’s no tendency for the driver to ride up under torque. You can put the screws in and out all day long without damage.
Of course, gunmakers keep life interesting by using all kinds of odd screw sizes, so I recommend buying a good driver set from Brownell’s that includes at least a couple dozen bits. Mess around with guns long enough and you will end up needing all of them. Also, be aware that there are certain guns (Smith & Wesson revolvers and Browning Auto-5 shotguns come to mind) that need very specific screwdrivers. Buy the right bits or you stand an excellent chance of ruining a classic gun.
Whew, made it through that whole post without any lame “screwing” jokes. I’m in awe of my own self-control.
I bought a little set of the Chapman variety when I set to work on Grandpa’s old Krag, I’ve broken a few but it’s been worth it.
I found the advice to use a “hollow-ground” screwdriver, on an antique tractor site, when rebuilding the carburetors and distributors. Having been an auto mechanic for over 45 years, I immediately saw why I was unable to remove damaged jets and screws. As usual, most had previously been stripped/rounded smooth. ( This also could apply to my arsenal of “Protect My Home and Country” weapons.) Most being unavailable, at the time, there was no choice but to leave them and hope that the carb. cleaner did its job and most of the time it did. Probably because we had good cleaner, back in the day.
Anyway, the gentleman who had written in the comments/suggestions had not made an address or we site available. He had made the suggestion, “If you don’t need but one size, you can make your own.” That was it …. nothing more! I have spent 3 hours searching for the directions on this process …. to no avail. Surely he is not the only person whole world with this information?? At the set I’d like to have, I could buy a new carb. …. two, in fact.
I wish I had your “self control”. Here it is Deer Season in Alabama and I have almost scratched and pulled every hair from my follically challenged head trying to find this “magic formula”. I really don’t think I could take another tornado to get to “See the Wizard of Ozzzzzzzzzz!!
Is there a even a slight possibility that you might have this “Golden Nugget” in your files or know someone who does …. that might just release it to a Legal Southern RedNeck Patriot??? I sho would be on yo debt, suh….. (jarnkm)
Sorry, I don’t have the know-how to make hollow-ground bits. I just buy mine through Brownells (there’s a link to them in my sidebar).